Cardiff to Cardiff: Castles and coastlines in Wales

This leg of the journey doesn’t cover many miles, but packs in a lot of sights and experiences, beginning with bustling Cardiff and ending in the seaside resort of Saundersfoot.
 
Cardiff
 
The capital of Wales is one of the United Kingdom’s most buzzing and energetic urban centres, so take a look around before you pick up your Cardiff motorhome rental and head out. Cardiff Castle and the St Fagan’s Museum are good places to begin, or you could devote a morning to wandering amongst the sights, shops, eateries and attractions of Cardiff Bay.
 
Once you are ready to depart, take the coastal route to Port Talbot. Ogmore Castle can be seen along the way with a very short detour, an extensive scenic ruin in a lovely pastoral setting.
 
Port Talbot
 
Once an industrial town, Port Talbot is now known for great mountain biking opportunities in Afan Forest Park (bike hire is available) and the nearby long, clean and beautiful sandy beach. It is still home to an impressive steelworks. Castle hunters can call in to Margam Castle, a 19th- century Gothic mansion.
 
Swansea
 
From the biggest city in Wales to the second-biggest in just a few hours! Swansea is located on the Gower Peninsula, the first place in the UK to be designated as an “Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty”. You can head out beyond the city limits to see exactly why it was granted such a lofty title or stay in the urban area to explore historic buildings, Swansea Castle, parks and museums. A detour out to the charming Mumbles fishing village is recommended.
 
Move on from Swansea across the River Loughor and through several towns and villages. If you’re yearning for more picturesque castle ruins, stop at Kidwelly Castle along the way.
 
Saundersfoot
 
This is a seaside resort and a popular holiday destination, with plenty of places to camp. Filled with charm and boasting a sandy beach, it’s a great overnight pit stop - and if you want to stretch your legs, walk a bit of the Pembrokeshire Coast Path in either direction.

While the total distance for this leg is only 55 miles, it’s on smaller back roads - and the route we have mapped out takes you through an incredible part of Wales which you will need extra time to explore.
 
Pass the Manor Wildlife Park on the way out of Saundersfoot, a unique attraction displaying an array of amazing exotic creatures including tigers, rhinos and red pandas.
 
You’ll also pass close by Carew Castle and Tidal Mill, where the mill has been restored for visitors to learn about its history.
 
Pembroke
 
Detour into Pembroke to see the town’s magnificent Norman castle by the river, one of the finest strongholds in the nation. The history of the place is not just concentrated there, but also evident in the lovely buildings of the town centre and town wall remnants. A visit to the Pembroke Tourist Office might help you to decide where to go and what to see.
 
Cross the Cleddau Ddu and continue to one of the country’s natural treasures: Pembrokeshire Coast National Park.
 
Pembrokeshire Coast National Park
 
This park is a mix of rugged wilderness and tranquil green pastoral scenes. Walking is an excellent way to experience it, be it on a section of the aforementioned Pembrokeshire Coast Path or another trail. Head out to St Brides for a magnificent view over the bay and the stunning coastline, and enjoy the villages such as picturesque Broad Haven with its lovely swimming beach, rock pools and traditional pubs.
 
If surfing is your thing or you would like to give it a go, this is the place to be. You can hire equipment and take lessons from providers such as Newsurf in Newgale. Birdwatchers should keep an eye out for gannets, puffins and other interesting seabirds on the coast and the small offshore islands, and for some amazing flora, check out the bluebell woods near Solva.
 
Having your own campervan rental will make it easy to experience the gorgeous Pembrokeshire coast the way you wish.
 
Fishguard
 
Once you’ve seen all you want to see of gorgeous Pembrokeshire, make your way to Fishguard. Its Welsh name is Abergwaun, meaning “mouth of the River Gwaun”, which describes its location. This idyllic port town offers caravan parks, restaurants, pubs and all you might need to prepare for the next leg.

You’ll drive north up the Ceredigion coastline and into Snowdonia National Park during this section. Leave Fishguard behind and head out of Pembrokeshire - you might want to call into Castell Henllys iron age fort along the way for a fascinating look at the very early history of Wales. You could also add Cilgerran Castle and Cardigan Castle to your list, both in and around the village of Aberteifi.
 
Ceredigion
 
Ceredigion county and Cardigan Bay coastline boast award-winning beaches, coves, cliffs and rolling green hills.
 
If you like mountain scenery, we highly recommend a detour inland to visit the Cambrian Mountains region. Head towards Tregaron, a busy market town, hike the trails and see Soar y Mynydd, the most isolated chapel in Wales. This area is known as one of the most untouched wildernesses in the United Kingdom, so enjoy the fresh air and stunning scenery as you make the most of the freedom that comes with a rental vehicle.
 
One of the most spectacular places to visit on the Cardigan coast is Cwmtydu, a natural deep cove once used by smugglers - you might even find old French brandy bottles in the caves there. New Quay is a gem of a town along this coast and a stunning seaside resort with an array of water-based activities.
 
Aberystwyth
 
You’ll come across this university town just before reaching Snowdonia National Park. It has an unmistakable row of tall terraced houses lining the waterfront and exudes a lot of liveliness - particularly during term-time. Aberystwyth University is here, bringing a vibrant nightlife and urban culture. The Cliff Railway is a fantastic scenic and historic attraction, offering an exciting ride up Constitution Hill to the summit station with a fabulous view of the bay.
 
Snowdonia National Park
 
Not long after leaving Aberystwyth, you’ll enter Snowdonia National Park. Keep an eye out for low-flying military aircraft as you pass the Mach Loop which is a set of valleys used for low-level flight training. The park is named for Mount Snowdon, the highest peak in Wales, which you can climb via one of several paths if you are feeling adventurous and energetic. If you are not, you can still reach the top thanks to the Snowdon Mountain Railway.
 
The route follows Afon Mawddach, a scenic river, but you’ll want to detour in the direction of the many attractions: beaches, lakes, valleys, mountains and more. Harlech Castle in Harlech is particularly spectacular, and you shouldn’t miss Portmeirion which is a stunning Italianate tourist village boasting exotic gardens. Have an underground adventure at the Llechwedd Slate Caverns, or see the charmingly picturesque Fairy Glen gorge.
 
There are plenty of waterfalls in Snowdonia National Park, always a popular and photo-worthy natural feature. Cymer Abbey is far from the most impressive ruins in Wales, but the simple stone remains of this church from the 12th century are gorgeous in an understated way - and it’s located near Dolgellau, right along the mapped route.
 
Caernarfon
 
Looking across Menai Strait to Anglesey, Caernarfon is a unique place and stronghold of the Welsh language. The most obvious attraction here is Caernarfon (Carnarvon) Castle, a veritable visual feast of a fortress that is a designated World Heritage Site. This imposing structure sits at the river mouth. Inside, you’ll find artefacts and all kinds of information about the history of the place; it’s a fabulous way to spend a few hours.
 
There is a lot of fun to be had in Caernarfon, but we recommend sitting for a bit in one of the eateries and pubs around the Old Town, listening to the locals speaking Welsh. The town has a higher population of native speakers than any other, and it is wonderful to witness - and overhear!

Depart Caernarfon heading towards Bangor, but turn off to cross Menai Strait. This leg is all about Anglesey, a popular island destination that offers not only miles of beautiful coastline but also Wales’ greatest concentration of historic sites.
 
Holyhead
 
Drive across the island, and you’ll soon be in Holyhead (Caergybi), a small town where ferries leave to Ireland. While you’re here, take a walk to the stunning South Stack Lighthouse which shines white among a desolate landscape of granite cliffs. The Holyhead Maritime Museum is also worth visiting.
 
When you leave Holyhead, don’t zoom straight back to the mainland - take smaller roads north through small villages such as Llanfaethlu and Tregele. It’s often in these out-of-the-way places that the best travel memories are made!
 
Llanbadrig
 
The ward of Llanbadrig encompasses a few sites and sights of interest in Northern Anglesey. The pretty village of Cemaes is one of these, on the shores of a natural harbour with two lovely beaches where sailing, windsurfing and fishing are popular. From here, you can also walk a part of the famous Anglesey Coastal Path.
 
St Patrick’s Church in Llanbadrig is another highlight, a small stone church in a remote and scenic spot that looks out across the water to Middle Mouse Island where legend says Saint Patrick was shipwrecked. Anglesey’s industrial heritage is also on display in Llanbadrig at the ruins of the Porth Wen Brickworks, a fascinating jumble of old and broken buildings.
 
On your way back towards the mainland, stop for a swim, a stroll or an ice cream at Lligwy Beach near Moelfre. You’ll also find Din Lligwy here, an ancient pre-Roman site with the remains of hut circles.
 
Beaumaris
 
Just before heading back across the strait on Menai Bridge, call in to beautiful Beaumaris, a town with yet another spectacular fortress. Beaumaris Castle is considered to be architecturally unequalled in Britain - although never 100% finished - and has a concentric design that made it an absolute stronghold in its time. It is designated a World Heritage Site. The town of Beaumaris also has a lot to offer travellers including more great architecture from various time periods.
 
Bangor
 
With views over the Menai Strait towards Anglesey, the small coastal city of Bangor is a great place to end this day of island exploration. Here you can enjoy Welsh art and culture, stock up and stay the night before continuing your road trip. The city centres around Bangor Cathedral, and has a beautiful Grade II-listed Victorian pier.

North Wales awaits! This leg is short, leaving plenty of time to enjoy the beaches you’ll encounter. On the way out of Bangor, stop in to take a look at Penrhyn Castle and Gardens, a fairytale 19th-century castle which houses an impressive art collection. Pass through coastal towns and under the River Conwy, then detour out to visit lovely Llandudno - calling in to remarkable Conwy Castle on the way.
 
Llandudno
 
This seaside resort had its heyday as a holiday destination in Victorian times and remains popular. The waterfront promenade is lined with tall and handsome terraced buildings, and an impressively long Victorian pier protrudes into the bay. The town is bookended by a big and a small headland, called Great Orme and Little Orme. Great Orme is a country park, rich in natural and cultural history, with a hill that you can summit on foot, in your vehicle or on the Great Orme Tramway. You might spot some interesting and rare creatures like the silver-studded blue butterfly, chough birds and wild Kashmir goats. The Great Orme Mines are a fascinating historical site, the oldest of their kind open to the public - and there is even a ski slope that’s open year-round.
 
As you head east along the coast of North Wales, you’ll pass through many pleasant seaside towns - any of which make a great place to stop for a cup of tea and a look around. The SeaQuarium in Rhyl is a top attraction for families, and golf lovers will enjoy the many courses and clubs to be found here.
 
The town of Flint marks the point where you will turn inland to head towards Wrexham. Here you’ll find Flint Castle, which is vacated but relatively whole, giving a good indication of what a castle in the 13th century would have been.
 
Borderlands
 
As you begin to head south again, you’ll skirt the border with England. This area is known as the North Wales Borderlands and mixes beautiful scenery with gritty and down-to-earth working towns and industrial estates.
 
Visit the markets in Mold and stop to look at the beautiful ruins of Caergwrle Castle near Caergwrle. If retail therapy is your thing, detour to visit the Tweedmill Shopping Outlet with a wide array of shops and brands.
 
Wrexham
 
This leg ends in Wrexham, a sizeable northern Wales town which has all the amenities necessary for an overnight. St Giles Church is one of the more spectacular sights, considered one of the “Wonders of Wales.” The Pontcysyllte Aqueduct is a functional and fabulous piece of engineering. There are many green spaces including the gorgeous gardens surrounding the stately Erddig Hall, where the Antiques Roadshow is often hosted. The small but interesting Wrexham County Borough Museum is worth a look.

We have crafted a route for this leg which takes smaller roads through many villages and towns, and keeps you entirely in Wales - however, the A483 will get you to your final destination faster should you wish it, and crosses the border into England for a stretch. As you pass through the inland hills of central Wales, take time to enjoy the delightful and bucolic scenery.
 
Leaving Wrexham, you’ll soon come across Chirk where you will turn right to skirt the border and visit the striking Chirk Castle (we are up to 18 castles, have you been counting?) with its short rounded towers and pastoral hilltop setting.
 
Continue through quaint hilly villages with wonderful Welsh names such as Llanarmon Dyffryn Ceiriog and Llanrhaeadr-ym-Mochnant until you reach Welshpool.
 
Welshpool
 
The most notable attractions in Welshpool is unmissable - the incredible and lofty red-tinged Powis Castle. The High Street’s Georgian architecture is also lovely, a great place to stroll. Visitors young and old alike will enjoy the Welshpool and Llanfair Light Railway which runs a beautiful narrow gauge steam train through beautiful countryside for a scenic ride.
 
Keep heading south past Mid Wales Airport and alongside the River Severn to Newtown.
 
Newtown
 
On the curving riverbank lies this appealing town, home to a fascinating Textile Museum and the Robert Owen Museum which tell part of the story of the region’s rich industrial heritage. The nature reserves and canal paths are perfect for stretching your legs, and if you are there in September, try to time your visit to coincide with the Newtown Food Festival.
 
The rest of the leg will have you continue to follow the River Severn and then the River Wye through villages and countryside. Llandrindod Wells and Builth Wells are known as spa towns, while Rhayader is the gateway to the beautiful Elan Valley and its reservoirs. If you want some more outdoor recreation on your road trip, we recommend the short side trip to the Elan Valley Visitor Centre and beyond.
 
Brecon
 
You’ll finish up in Brecon, poised at the edge of one of the most spectacular national parks in the country. This market town boasts the small but delightful Brecon Cathedral, a river walk along the River Usk, and the Regimental Museum of the Royal Welsh.

This short leg of your journey will bring you back to Cardiff, completing the tour of Wales - but it’s really all about the magnificent Brecon Beacons National Park. While the route shown on the map is quite straightforward, you will want to roam around the park and explore, and perhaps even spend a few extra days.
 
Brecon Beacons National Park
 
Glorious nature is the main attraction here, and you can enjoy the scenery from the road or take to the trails. There is something for walkers of all abilities, from a mile-long stroll in the grounds of Abergavenny Castle to a challenging climb up Pen y Fan, the highest peak in South Wales.
 
The park has castles galore. Visit the brooding ruins of Carreg Cennen Castle in the western reaches of the park, or soak in some history at atmospheric Cyfarthfa Castle, Museum and Gallery. Gaze upon the imposing medieval round tower of Dinefwr Castle, or enjoy the pretty overgrown walls of Hay Castle. Castle-collectors will delight here!
 
The options for things to do and see in the Brecon Beacons are endless. There are caves, heritage sites, friendly villages, lakes, rivers, waterfalls, mountains and more. The official National Park Visitors Centre near Libanus is a good place to have a cup of tea, get your bearings and plan your visit.
 
Chepstow
 
We’ve factored in a detour east to visit Chepstow, an ancient market town on the River Wye. It comes, of course, with its own castle - Chepstow Castle - which is a stern-looking grey structure of historical significance. Another must-see near Chepstow is Tintern Abbey. This hauntingly beautiful monastic ruin is spectacular and will earn a place in your heart and your photo albums.
 
Once you’ve seen all you want to see in southeast Wales, it’s time to return your motorhome rental in Cardiff and draw the journey to a close - there are many more UK itineraries should you want another adventure in the region.